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Egyptian handsaw<\/p>\n<\/div>\n
Editor\u2019s note: This article was originally published in the October 2003 issue of Popular Woodworking Magazine, and has been lightly updated by the editorial staff for online publication. Some of the resources mentioned in the article are no longer available or current.<\/em><\/p>\nThe First Handsaws<\/h3>\n
Modern woodworkers would almost immediately recognize the first known metal saws, which were excavated in Egypt.<\/p>\n
They had a long, knife-like blade, a straight grip and cut on the pull stroke, like a Japanese saw. Why the pull stroke?<\/p>\n
Early Egyptian saws were made with a thin sheet of copper (as thin as 0.03\u2033) and had no rigid spine like the modern backsaw.<\/p>\n
\u201c(If they had been used) on the push stroke, the saw would have buckled and bent,\u201d according to Geoffrey Killen, author of numerous books and articles on Egyptian woodworking and the head of faculty at the Design and Technology Department of the Stratton Upper School and Community College in England.<\/p>\n
What is unusual about these saws is that all the teeth were set (meaning they were bent) to one side of the blade. This makes the saw difficult to steer, and the Egyptians had to come up with ingenious ways of wedging the saw kerf open during each cut, according to Killen.<\/p>\n
The advent of bronze tools brought some refinements, as did the iron saws developed by the Romans. But the basic form was still a pull saw with a thin blade.<\/p>\n
It was the invention of the frame saw (plus teeth set to both sides of the blade) that allowed these thin metal blades to be used on either the push stroke or the pull stroke \u2013 much like a modern coping saw or bowsaw, according to \u201cThe History of Woodworking Tools\u201d (G. Bell & Sons) by W.L. Goodman.<\/p>\n
The frame saw might not have been invented by the Romans, but they certainly refined it and produced a wide variety of them.<\/p>\n
This is an important fork in the road in saw history that affects us to this day. The Japanese developed pull saws like the Egyptians, but they never seem to have developed frame saws, according to several students of Japanese history (though a Chinese frame saw did come into use in 15th century Japan).<\/p>\n
So the Japanese, with their scarce metal resources and their traditions of working low to the ground, stuck with the pull saw and refined it to a high art.<\/p>\n
In the West, most of the European continent stuck with the bowsaw. But the Dutch and English took a different path. In the mid-17th century, wider steel blades became possible thanks to water-driven mills, and the modern handsaw that cuts on the push stroke was born.<\/p>\n
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The Western handsaw, shown here being used by Don McConnell with an overhand rip grip, cuts on the push stroke.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n
The West Stumbles<\/h3>\n
The 19th and early 20th centuries were the golden age of Western handsaws. There were hundreds of saw manufacturers, fierce competition, high-quality tools and a very hungry market.<\/p>\n
But as the demand for quality hand tools declined, so did the number of manufacturers. And quality slipped dramatically.<\/p>\n
\u201cWestern manufacturers thought it was OK to ship a saw that was poorly set, dull and had a handle that looked like it was made by a third-grade art student,\u201d says Thomas Lie-Nielsen, owner of Lie-Nielsen Toolworks. \u201cYou couldn\u2019t use the saws right out of the box. It\u2019s no wonder the Japanese ate their lunch.\u201d<\/p>\n
When Western saws suitable for cabinetmaking disappeared off the shelves, the Japanese saws picked up the slack.<\/p>\n
\u201cIn Japan, the product lines have not been cheapened,\u201d says Rob Lee of Lee Valley Tools. \u201cEven products that have been mass produced have not been cheapened.\u201d<\/p>\n
So while it was tough to find a decent new Western saw at almost any price, the Japanese exported saws to the West that were sharp, straight, perfectly set and inexpensive. A good Japanese backsaw still costs only about $40. So it\u2019s little wonder that the Japanese saw now is in many North American workshops. It was, in many ways, a simple matter of economics.<\/p>\n
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Instead of benches, Japanese craftsmen often use low trestles. Sawing a tenon with a Japanese saw this way is efficient and requires sawing at a less awkward angle than at a high Western bench. However, you need to be in good shape to work this way.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n
Facts About Japanese Saws<\/h3>\n
Japanese craftsmen would be quite curious about the way Westerners use their saws. For one, we work on a high bench and clamp our work when sawing. The Japanese furniture maker works on a low sawhorse (6\u2033 high or so) and does not generally have a vise.<\/p>\n
\u201c(Westerners) tend to clamp everything,\u201d says Harrelson Stanley of JapaneseTools.com. \u201cThe Japanese don\u2019t clamp unless they have to. They do some wedging. Mostly they saw in toward a solid object,\u201d such as the work, which is secured by their foot, he says.<\/p>\n
A second difference is that many Westerners use the crosscut dozuki saw (a saw with a rigid spine) for cutting dovetails, which is primarily a ripping operation.<\/p>\n
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For crosscutting in joinery,the Japanese will use a dozuki (which means \u201cshoulder of a tenon\u201d).There are various ways to grip the saw.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n
The Japanese woodworker instead uses a rip-tooth dozuki (which is uncommon in the West) or a rip saw without a back, says Damsen of Japan Woodworker. That\u2019s because the Japanese philosophy on dovetails and tenons is, at times, different than the Western approach.<\/p>\n
\u201cWhen they cut dovetails they don\u2019t want the cut too smooth,\u201d he says. \u201cThey compress the joint before assembly and let it expand and lock the joint.\u201d<\/p>\n
Westerners want a smoother cut and are willing to sacrifice the speed of a rip tooth. Many Japanese dovetail saws for the Western market have some sort of combination tooth, in some cases a tooth that was designed to cut plywood that also works quite well for dovetails, Damsen says.<\/p>\n
Types of Japanese Saws<\/h3>\n
But one thing Japanese and Western craftsmen share is having to choose what type of Japanese saw to buy: a machine-made saw or a craftsman-made saw. There are important differences:<\/p>\n
\n- A good-quality machinemade saw costs about $20-$50. The price of a craftsman-made saw averages $150, and the premium tools are about $250.<\/li>\n
- Generally, craftsman-made saws have softer teeth than the machine-made saws, which are typically impulse-hardened. Impulse hardening is a fast, highvoltage process that hardens only the teeth. While the machinemade saws stay sharp longer, they cannot be resharpened.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Craftsman-made saws can be resharpened and even customized to the way you work. But this is meaningless to Western woodworkers, says Frank Tashiro, owner of Tashiro Hardware, which sells the line of ZETA Saws.<\/p>\n
\u201c(The sharpener) doesn\u2019t know your work so he does the best he can, so it doesn\u2019t work out,\u201d says Tashiro, who adds that the best value and performance come from a Japanese saw with replaceable impulse-hardened blades.<\/p>\n
But replaceable blades rankle woodworkers who don\u2019t believe in disposable tools.<\/p>\n
To counter that, Japanese saw manufacturers say that once your impulse-hardened saw becomes too dull for woodworking, it is still plenty sharp for work in the garden as a pruning saw.<\/p>\n
\u201cYou can make a nice scraper out of the blade, too,\u201d Damsen says of the saws.<\/p>\n
\n- Another difference is that many craftsman-made saws are more delicate because of their thinner blades. Even the most robust craftsman-made saw should not fall into the hands of a beginning woodworker.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
\u201cJust because you have a $200 saw doesn\u2019t mean you will saw better,\u201d says Stanley. \u201cIt\u2019s important to practice the technique. Start with impulse-hardened saws. Don\u2019t get a $250 saw and break it. As your skills improve you can use thinner saws.\u201d<\/p>\n
When using Japanese joinery saws, most everyone agrees that you shouldn\u2019t be aggressive or saw at a radical angle. Just a bit of downward pressure on the pull stroke is all it takes, and you shouldn\u2019t apply any downward pressure on the return push.<\/p>\n
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Japanese Rip Teeth \u2022 The length of the rip teeth are graduated on Japanese saws.They start small near the handle and get larger.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n
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Western Rip Teeth \u2022 Rip teeth work like chisels, levering out the grain. Crosscut teeth work like knives, severing the fibers on either side.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n